Russians Dominate Speed Competition at the IFSC World Youth Climbing Championships

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Boulders Gym_Frog

Story and Photos by Christian J. Stewart (ISN)

August 18, 2013, Central Saanich, BC  – The very strong Russian team dominated the podium Sunday, taking 10 of the 18 medal positions in the Speed Climbing Category of the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) 2013 World Youth Climbing Championships that are taking place at the Boulders Climbing Gym in Central Saanich.

The Russians medal count included four golds, as Daria Kan (Female Youth B), Vladisav Myznikov (Male Youth B), Elena Markusheva (Female Youth A) and Nikita Suyushkin (Junior Male) all dominated their categories to take the top spot.

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Russia’s Nikita Suyushkin gives a happy thumbs up after winning the Speed Climbing gold in the Junior Male category on Sunday (Photo: Christian J. Stewart / Island Sports News)

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Russia’s Daria Kan would take gold in the Female Youth B Speed Climbing category on Sunday (Photo: Christian J. Stewart / Island Sports News)

The Russians were shut out of gold in just two age categories, as Poland’s Aleksandra Rudzinska, last year’s World Champion, once again cruised through the Junior Female category to claim top spot there, and Italy’s Allessandro Santoni provided the upset of the day, defeating Russia’s Aleksandr Shikov for the gold in the Male Youth A category.

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Poland’s Aleksandra Rudzinska would take gold in the Junior Female speed competition on Sunday (Photo: Christian J. Stewart / Island Sports News)

Three Canadian climbers including Robert Stewart-Patterson (Junior Male), Francis Bilodeau (Junior Male) and Elena Moss (Youth B Female) made it into the final rounds but did not medal.  Stewart-Patterson however, did set a new Canadian Speed record earlier in qualifying as he posted a time of 8.06 seconds.

Robert’s sister, Alison Stewart-Patterson, although she did not qualify for the final rounds, also set a new female Canadian Speed record with a time of 13.38 seconds in her qualifying heat.

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Sister and brother Alison (left) and Robert (right) Stewart-Patterson, both set new Canadian Speed records at the competition on Sunday (Photo: Christian J. Stewart / Island Sports News)

Climbers from the United States also fared well in the speed competition, as they came away with two silvers and two bronze and had two climbers just out of the medals in fourth place.  One of the highlights of the USA performance was the bronze medal climb of John Brosler, who after topping the wall in 6.744 seconds, reacted as if he had just won the gold, providing the many fans in attendance with a highlight reaction of the day.

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The USA’s John Brosler reacts with joy after winning the Speed Climbing Bronze Medal in the Male Youth A category on Sunday (Photo: Christian J. Stewart / Island Sports News)

Full results from the speed competition are presented below. Details can be found at http://tinyurl.com/k4j2usy:

Youth B Female
1. Daria Kan (RUS)
2. Margarita Marsanova (USA)
3. Anastasia Manuyova (RUS)
4. Grace McKeehan (USA)

Youth B Male
1. Vladisav Myznikov (RUS)
2. Lev Rudatsky (RUS)
3. Kostiantyn Pavlenko (UKR)
4. Brandon Lieuw (USA)

Youth A Female
1. Elena Markusheva (RUS)
2. Kayla Lieuw (USA)
3. Kyra Condie (USA)
4. Aurelia Sarisson (FRA)

Youth A Male
1. Allesandro Santoni (ITA)
2. Aleksandr Shikov (RUS)
3. John Brosler (USA)
4. Jan Kriz (CZE)

Junior Female
1. Aleksandra Rudzinska (POL)
2. Anouck Jaubert (FRA)
3. Svetlana Okolnichniko (RUS)
4. Varvara Shatalova (RUS)

Junior Male
1. Nikita Suyushkin (RUS)
2. Artem Savelyev (RUS)
3. Sergey Luzgetskiy (RUS)
4. Konstantin Payl (RUS)

Competition wraps up at the World Youth Championships on Monday, with the Lead / Difficulty Semi-finals at 9:30 am to Noon and finals at 4:30 pm.  Awards and closing ceremonies are at 7:30 pm. 

Admission to Monday’s semi-finals and finals is just $5.

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South Africa’s Thomas Slabbert was nowhere near the medal round, but after posting his best time ever in speed qualifications, he reacted as if he had won the gold (Photo: Christian J. Stewart / Island Sports News)

The Boulders Climbing Gym is adjacent to Stelly’s Secondary School in Central Saanich (1627 Stelly’s Cross Road).  Free parking is available at the school but will be limited. Additional parking will be available at Centennial Park or Brentwood Bay Elementary, both a ten minute walk from the school.

For more information please head to http://climbtheboulders.com/world-youth-championships/ or to the Boulders Facebook page at www.facebook.com/bouldersclimb

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Two climbers head up the wall during the qualifying rounds of the Speed Competition on Sunday (Photo: Christian J. Stewart / Island Sports News)

About the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC)
The International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) was created in 2007 and is a non-governmental international association with a non-profit-making purpose of international interest. The principal purposes of the IFSC are the direction, regulation, promotion, development and furtherance of international climbing competitions (Lead, Speed and Boulder). The IFSC fosters links, networks, and friendly relations among its members, their climbers and officials. The IFSC is recognised by the IOC and is member of ARISF, SportAccord and IWGA. For more details, please visit the IFSC web page at http://www.ifsc-climbing.org

About the Boulders Climbing Gym
The Boulders Climbing Gym is a not-for-profit society, with the mandate of making climbing accessible for everyone, regardless of ability or ability to pay.  With over 13,000 square feet (1,208 square metres) of climbing space, The Boulders Climbing Gym is a community facility and a unique social enterprise, providing adaptive recreation and rehabilitation programs, youth recreational and competitive programs, as well as facilitating a climbing academy at Stelly’s Secondary School.  All instructors are certified by the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides. See www.climbtheboulders.com for more details.

Home of the 2013 IFSC World Youth Climbing Championships, August 15-19, 2013
Web
: http://climbtheboulders.com/world-youth-championships/
Twitter: @bouldersclimb  Hash Tag: #wych2013
Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/bouldersclimb

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